We set off at low tide for our trip on the Stikine River with Mark Galla, following the meandering river past mudflats with huge cedar trees lying washed up on them.
As we continued up the many different sloughs, you really get to appreciate the Alaskan way of life, the floating homes are a way to avoid the legislation that prevents building on the land, this is after all wilderness, but the Alaskans still want to hunt and fill the freezer before winter.
After many miles, we could feel the temperature drop perceptibly as we approached Shakes Lake, where we met may ice floes, a natural sculpture park, eerily quiet.
It's hard to describe the glacier, much larger than any photos do it justice, bluer where the ice is most compressed and really cold.